Original Title: Paris Gaoding for Fall/Winter 2022: Balenciaga Sews Finale Dress for More Than 300 Days, Chanel Salutes Jewelry Every year, it brings you Gaoding Fashion Week to share, because Gaoding Fashion is a time for brands and even the whole fashion industry to "think independently". This year's Gaoding Week is particularly obvious, brands have come up with a clear attitude and works, put together, like a conservative and radical confrontation. We can see that Balenciaga's diving suit is fashionable in technology. We can also see the alternative pioneer of IRIS Van Herpen. We can also see the archaeology of the past by CHANEL and Armani Priv Privé. Expand the full text Of course, there is also ELIE SAAB's ultimate beauty and immortal spirit. This is not surprising at all, because compared with the ready-to-wear for the public, Gaoding currently has only 2000 customers worldwide. Brands and designers can boldly open their hands and feet to express their attitudes and condense the language of design. For example, dense diamond and bow elements Garments decorated with gold carvings Dress one's whole body in jewels Or full of flowers.. Or magnify the romance and beauty of flowers in a large area Quickly share with you the history of Gaoding, and you will know why Gaoding fashion is so precious and extreme. Gaoding fashion has experienced many devastating blows in history, but Gaoding has never stopped "dreaming". Late 19th and early 20th century At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, in the vigorous development stage of Gaoding, when the fashion media became its propaganda window, it also brought the problem of "plagiarism" to Gaoding, which made the designers at that time in a dilemma. World War I, World War II In the First World War and the Second World War, fashion houses closed down and designers left overseas. The surviving brands have been hit to varying degrees because of limited resources. Lucien Lelong, then president of the Paris Haute Couture Association, shouted: "If Paris fashion must die, let it die in France!" The impact of ready-to-wear The impact of ready-to-wear is wider and longer. With the recovery of the post-war economy and the development of science and technology, people's life and consumption concept have changed, and Gaoding's business has suddenly fallen sharply. Gaoding brand is always faced with a dilemma: insist or give up. Negatives turn to ready-to-wear, and holdouts always face difficulties. We all know that the trend of ready-to-wear is an objective fact, but the elites in the fashion industry have not given up Gaoding. It is also because of this spirit of perseverance that Gao Ding is like the most dazzling diamond on the crown, where every stitch is full of love. Today's Gaoding is neither tailor-made, nor showy craftsmanship, nor superficial flashiness. Gaoding's design language has more character and strength. Brands save the nation through ready-to-wear curves, break away from the plight of survival, and can freely express their views and design, so that we can appreciate and think through the screen. Gaoding has always placed the highest dream of fashion, designers resist the law of capital operation through Gaoding, and consumers express their style through Gaoding. Gaoding is the core strength of fashion, because the threshold is high, the design concept is stronger, the tailoring and handicraft are more exquisite, so it has a high index significance in the fashion industry, and it is also the highlight of the whole fashion industry. Next, we will take a detailed look at how the brands expressed their views through "Gaoding". Balenciaga's white veiled bridal gown, the finale of this season's Gaoding show, is highly topical in this season's Gaoding week. It takes 7500 hours to embroider, and a garment craftsman has to work continuously for more than 310 days to sew 70000 crystals, 80000 silver leaves and 200000 sequins by hand. In addition to the grand finale wedding dress, Balenciaga also has a large number of futuristic tights, such as diving suits. Demna Gvasalia defines Balenciaga's "new gazar" for this era-Japanese limestone-based neoprene diving fabric, which can better shape and create extreme silhouettes. As early as 1958, Crist Cristóbal Balenciaga and Zurich fabric manufacturer Abraham developed a new fabric called gazar, which is easy to shape but light enough to make the seemingly heavy and stiff satin surface appear to be free from gravity. The show reviewed the history of Haute Couture, retaining various details, such as holding up the number plate to shoot, the brand also recalled the model who walked for the brand more than 50 years ago, and reinterpreted the design of that year in modern language. Very wrapped, and matte texture, giving a sense of quiet and profound, the body lines of the models are precisely outlined, and then put on a mysterious mask, full of unknown feeling. Developed by Mercedes-Benz's AMGF1 Applied Sciences Division, these black masks, which use polyurethane coating technology, have been tested for months and have the perfect combination of streamline, anti-fog performance and breathability. The draped dress is decorated with skirts, shawls, scarf-style jackets, bows and pleated skirts, and uses unique fabric treatment technology, bright coating technology, waist profile and hand-inlaid beads to re-interpret the historical collection design. In this big show, Kim Kardashian took part in the catwalk, which was really beautiful. She lost 16 pounds, had a delicate face, a concave and convex figure, and handled the clothes well. The model line-ups is very strong, bringing together Nicole Kidman, Naomi Campbell, Dua Lipa, Bella Hadid, Kim Kardashian and others. In particular, the final four looks brought tears to the eyes, with Nicole Kidman wearing an eye-catching draped evening gown made of metallic silver wire. Naomi Campbell wore a puffy black velvet dress. A draped pink satin piece so gorgeous; Finally, there is the most talked about "couture bride" look, with a dramatic ring skirt and a large crystal veil. More than a quarter of the looks in this collection have been rebuilt with upcycled pieces. Retro jackets, parkas, short coats and jeans have been carefully deconstructed and reorganized into a new silhouette, and antique watches have been dismantled and reshaped into jewelry. In addition, the shaping of T-shirts and the high definition of jeans are also interesting points of view in this series. New fabrics, futuristic technology and new silhouettes make the show look like a combination of "past and future". Each stunning silhouette embodies the power and grace of the changing sunset, and the entire show is a tribute to Twilight. Models, like fairies coming out of fairyland, are so beautiful and fantastic that they are unparalleled. ELIE SAAB's Gaoding is a visual feast. The collection takes viewers into a subtropical paradise at sunset, exploring the transition from light to dark, from strong summer colors to soft blushes and baby blues, to starlight silver and black velvet. Iconic ball gowns, voluminous capes and nearly nude sequined dresses.. Look at ELIE SAAB reluctant to blink, Xianpai will never disappoint, exquisite craftsmanship and exquisite design make clothing a work of art, the whole show is a beautiful feast. In particular, the show had men's wear, and designer Elie Saab told reporters after the show, "We have a lot of demands from our customers, but this is the first time we've shown them on the runway." The CHANEL show closely combines the show with art, outlining a beautiful dream space. It is located at Étrierde Paris, an equestrian school in the 16th district of Paris, large print tape measure , France. The models walk out slowly, and there is a kind of inspiration exchange and collision across time and space. Set up like an immersive constructivist installation, this is another collaboration between CHANEL and Xavier Veilhan. Inspired by the optical illusion of trompe l'oeil, Veilhan transforms the show into an elegant and agile space. The show kicked off with a green suit and ended with a wedding dress. In this collection of 44 pieces, Virginie Viard draws inspiration from the suits and long dresses conceived by Gabrielle Chanel in the 1930s, including stiff shoulder lines and ruching elements on wedding gowns. The lace fabric, which has been decorated, revised, cut and re-colored, replaces the common embroidery decoration, as well as various layers of black and silver fabrics. Men's wide-brimmed hats are also a highlight of this collection. The circular silhouette can be traced back to Karl Lagerfeld's special attention to the key words of inspiration in his lifetime-the "graphic" decorative constructivism in the 1970s. Such a way of thinking full of free expression and breaking rules was expressed by Virginie Viard using tweed and wide-brimmed men's hats. The shoes are based on the concept of riding boots, echoing the spring/summer 2022 haute couture fashion show previously unveiled by Charlotte Casiraghi on horseback, and the venue of the show is also the horse farm, L'Étrierde Paris, an equestrian school in Paris, France. Featuring impeccable tailoring, exquisite gowns and fine jewelry, the collection pays homage to the first and only "Bijoux de Diamants" "collection created by Chanel 100 years ago. In this scene, we see a lot of jewelry featuring astronomical images such as comets, the moon and the sun. It is a journey across space and time that connects the past and future of the CHANEL universe. Archaeology: a series of beautiful Bijoux de Diamants ~ COMETE Open Necklace/Platinum set with 1 F-VVS2 round cut diamond weighing approximately 4.02 carats, 4 round cut diamonds weighing approximately 4.05 carats total and 649 round cut diamonds weighing approximately 64.85 carats total. PLUME brooch/platinum, diamond-set, detachable design, available in 3 ways to wear. COMETE Open Necklace/Platinum set with 1 F-VVS2 round cut diamond weighing approximately 4.02 carats, 4 round cut diamonds weighing approximately 4.05 carats total and 649 round cut diamonds weighing approximately 64.85 carats total. There are many bow elements in this big show, so there is the shadow of this COMETE open necklace, and the clothes also adopt the shining feeling of jewelry. I like the deep meaning behind the inspiration of this series. The tree of life is an important element symbolizing life, the universe, and the spirit. Inspired by Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko's work "The Tree of Life", creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri uses painting and embroidery to inject emotion into various cultures and myths that have been circulating for a long time, showing that the tree of life connects all things in the universe and withstands the sky. The natural aesthetic vocabulary of the sky and the earth is connected through branches and roots. The roots represent our past, bringing strength and placement, allowing fashion fans to grow and blossom from this show; the trunks represent the path of the earth to the sky It is also a show of strength. Year after year, as you overcome the challenges of life, big and small, beautiful rings are formed, supporting the existence of the leaves steadily and permanently; the leaves symbolize the future. It is green and full of hope. They stretch to the sky and nourish life with their sap, while the rare and precious fruits represent rebirth open to the world. 。 The designer re-interprets this ancient element and presents it on DIOR's Gaoding series of beautiful clothes, giving the tree of life more abundant emotions. In DIOR Gaoding Garden, the tree of life is the most beautiful spokesman of nature, and also symbolizes the continuation of women and life. In this series, a large number of beige, brown and black are used as the main theme. The "beauty" of clothing requires a lot of effort to make embroidery more elegant in cotton fabrics, wool crepe, silk, cashmere and other materials to achieve the ultimate and depth of DIOR high-order technology. This show not only shows the exquisite craftsmanship, but also shows the vitality and beauty of nature and human beings. Has Armani given up the youth market? After watching this show, many people will think so. But don't forget that ARMANI takes the private customization route, with the suffix prive.. That is to say, designers have a higher degree of freedom and independent attitude. The collection is inspired by clubs from the 1920s to the 1930s during the two world wars, which reminds me of glittering nights. The dark tailored pieces complement the shimmering robes, and the decorative styles are very obvious, such as embroidery, tassels and so on. From a professional point of view, it is perfect. Its outline is beautiful, its texture is advanced, and it is like the heroine of a beautiful night. With its sinuous tailoring and Art Deco graphicalism, this dress seems to shine on "important occasions". To some extent, it has lost the trend of fashion chasing, but it is the most eye-catching dignitary in Vanity Fair. At the same time, it also fully illustrates Armani's authority on eternal cool. From another point of view, Armani pays attention to middle-aged and old women's clothing, which is also a fashion track. Too comfortable, the world is in a hurry, but here is quiet and comfortable. FENDI's show is the ultimate expression of minimalist luxury. On a pure white and bright runway, guests are immersed in a wonderful music atmosphere, and models walk out as if they had fallen into a gentle country. Clean and neat tailoring, gentle and soft tone, precise and transparent crystal decoration naturally fit on the model body, "natural flow", only high-set technology can have such a traceless beauty. It looks simple, but the heavy embroidery and quiet decoration are very complex. Especially light and elegant, exquisite and amazing, low-key beauty makes people unable to move their eyes. In the details of the quiet beauty, every detail is perfect, impeccable. Embroidery and creation on tulle is like a dream. In terms of accessories, it is more bold and full of ingenuity, and the way of wearing is full of personality and romance. In addition, FENDI officially launched the brand's first high-end jewelry series this season, and the high-end jewelry created by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the brand's jewelry art director, also appeared on the T stage. This line of jewelry draws inspiration from Karl Lagerfeld's FF monogram, Roman architecture, and mid-century sculptural glamour. The Iris Van Herpen has a high degree of identification and is forward-looking and fashionable? Three D Print? A sense of technology ? A sense of future ? Avant-garde fashion ? It seems that these words can no longer express their novelty. 。 It combines technology with the natural world in an inorganic body, and Van Herpen takes models down the runway with the appearance of bones, shaped 3D printing and laser cutting, which reminds people of another world. In the new collection, it brings the imaginary future fashion into reality, virtual world, high fashion, ancient myth … No one knows what kind of "metamorphosis" it will start next season. But what is certain is that it opens up new possibilities for couture. The works of science fiction also indicate the infinite possibilities of high-set clothing. Whether it is the old archaeology of the past or the exploration of the future, the existence of Gaoding fashion itself is an extreme expression, about aesthetics, about the status quo, about attitude, about the meaning of clothing. Through cooperation with artists, DIOR attaches the meaning of the tree of life to high-set clothing, so that clothing can carry a deeper meaning. Balenciaga develops materials science and contours, and expresses fashion through technology. Fashion is always inclusive, which is particularly evident in Gaoding Zhou. We can like the candlelight of 100 years ago, study tailor-made clothes, explore and try to wear in the future, but what remains unchanged is that dressing and fashion always exist for expression, it is inclusive and rich. Due to the limitation of space, this article can only be a collection of pearls in the sea, throwing out a brick to attract jade. If you like Gaoding, please continue to explore this beauty. See you next time. 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